Lijiang is best in the early morning, when you can wander the empty pedestrian lanes of this sectioned-off historic grid while the quiet gurgle of ancient water canals trickles calmly alongside stone lanes overseen by white-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the quintessential Chinese landscape. We’re perched up on Lion Hill, known for its magnificent view over the village of Dayan, better known as Lijiang’s Old Town. Courtesy of AmandayanĪ stroll around the serene courtyard grounds of Amandayan reveals an old gate that opens onto the ancient gardens of Wenchang Temple across from the hotel’s idyllic teahouse. In fact, these rank among the highest quality Chinese exports to Japan where, in 36 hours, they will sell in Tokyo for as much as ¥600 per gram.Įnjoy the peace and ceremony of a traditional afternoon tea at the Tea House. He bends the stick to release a thick-stemmed mushroom called songrong by the locals, and matsutake by the Japanese-who love them. A guide uses a spindly branch and carefully brushes the earth away to reveal a sienna round cap with a long white stem. Twigs, branches and pine needles protect these noble mushrooms, allowing them to grow to significant sizes the large and perfect A-grade stems fetch higher prices. We are shown a makeshift shelter beneath one of the many pines that dot the steep mountainside where the aptly named pine mushroom grows. “These are our mushroom suppliers and they control this mountain,” says James Bao, food-and-beverage manager of the Amandayan, an hour away in Lijiang, who has accompanied me on this mushroom excursion with executive chef Steven Miao. It is generally believed that more than 800 varieties grow in Yunnan and, from late summer through late fall, this land springs to life. Their diverse cultures revere and cultivate what seems like every possible type of the fungus. Lush lands hedged by majestic mountains have carved lively villages, home to 26 minority groups, though this part of Yunnan is dominated by the Bai and, on higher ground, the Yi. At 3,800 meters-the altitude giving name to Yunnan, which means Southern Clouds-I’m lightheaded from both the steep climb into this thin air and the thrill of foraging headfirst into the start of mushroom season here. I’m in Heqing, Yunnan, China’s southwestern-most province and have been up since dawn. A PALPABLE EXCITEMENT BRIGHTENS the damp mist that hangs over a patchwork Bai minority village beneath Langwoshan, or Wolf’s Den Mountain.
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